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Garment Wet Processing in India: The Road Ahead India’s share in the apparel sector in the World Trade is marginally over 2%, which is not too exciting. The growth in apparel has been steady but not worth writing home about, in the perspective of India’s price competitiveness in this trade. The rise of regional trade has gradually eroded this competitiveness. One of the primary bottlenecks in India’s clothing chain is the lack of adequate fabric / garment processing capacity of requisite quality standards. While the issue of fabric processing has been debated for long, the area of garment wet processing has started warranting interest only in the near past. Why this sudden interest in Garment Washing? Cotton garments have formed a significant part of the apparel export basket from India. Of the total exports, men’s shirts, T-shirts and to some extent skirts and kids garments have a large use of cotton fabric as the substrate. These are not only high growth areas in India’s apparel export portfolio, but also lend themselves to a variety of wet processing options. Further, categories such as trousers, shorts and denim apparel, which internationally are high growth categories (though exports from India herein are presently negligible) and continue to remain high growth in the domestic market too, have wet processing as an integral part of its production program. Thus, one of the prime reasons for garment wet processing sector’s rising importance is its ability to introduce a variety of aesthetic and functional innovations in garment categories, which are otherwise quite standard in its design elements. Separately, recent years have seen a big “pull” factor from overseas buyers in sourcing garments that have a large “wash” factor, due to the fashion trends currently in vogue. Finally, a number of wet processes are being carried out on the garment stage rather than the fabric stage, since this gives a better control element to the garment manufacturer. Even in the domestic RMG segment, casual clothing (which lends itself to wet processing) is increasing its share in the consumer’s wardrobe. Hence, washing which started off initially to pre-shrink garments (prior to reaching the consumer) has come a long way now to provide fashion and functionality elements. PRESENT STATUS The wet processing sector in India is highly fragmented – a large number of small sized units scattered across the major garment manufacturing centers. The average size of the units would be around 1000 - 2000 garments per day capacity (enzyme wash cycle), which is by far very low compared to international standards. Garment wet processing capacities even in neighbouring countries are higher than the Indian average. Infrastructurally, the laundries have been running on machines that are developed indigenously and cater to the basic functions pretty well. However, these equipments lack the sophistication desired for improving wash reproducibility, enhancing efficiencies or boosting productivities. In the Indian scenario, laundries by and large do not have well laid out systems since these are master-driven, who do have high skill level but a low knowledge level. The information pertaining to wet processing is resident in merely a few individuals, which does not spell well for the industry as a whole. There is lack of wash development updates or courses available and the academic institutes too have chosen to ignore this area till very recently. On the environmental issue, garment wet processing sector releases large amounts of effluents but is not geared to cater to the effluent treatment requirements – another fallout of being in the small-scale sector. SWOT Analysis
GLOBAL TRENDS Before venturing into action steps, it would be appropriate to highlight the major trends that are impacting the world garment trade in general and the garment-processing sector in particular. Q International Scale Capacities: The garment wet processing sector is consolidating into large-scale capacities that can leverage the economies of scale and make use of automation and information technology to process quality products at lower costs. Q Mergers & Acquisitions: The garment industry has seen in the recent past the M&A route being adopted by companies to grow. Increasingly, companies will be making strategic alliances around the globe to deliver better value to the customers at lower cost and ensure access to markets. Q Collaboration & Partnerships: Internationally, companies are collaborating with both upstream and downstream suppliers to work synergistically with a view to reducing costs through pruning of inventory and lead times, reduction of product development time and cutting down extraneous costs through better product design. ACTION STEPS What needs to be done to ensure that Indian garment wet processors use these opportunities available to carve a significant share of export trade? Also, how will the domestic garment brands benefit from the growing opportunities for washed garments? Based on the global trends mentioned above, and with the backdrop of our current state of affairs in the garment wet processing trade in India, the following four-point action plan is suggested: Technology – Hardware & Software There is a need for technological investments in order to ensure that the Indian processors have greater plant efficiencies, improved productivity patterns and better batch-to-batch reproducibility. Investments in I/T will provide for better control on various processes within the laundry. However, the plants should have global capacities in order to be able to invest in state of the art systems. Upfront costs need to be evaluated vis-à-vis operational savings (say in steam, chemicals, etc), productivity improvement, reduced labour, enhanced space and greater reproducibility. Along with technological investments in hardware, there is an acute need to upgrade the current systems and processes that operate within Indian laundries. In the existing scenario, systems or the lack of it are responsible for chaos and re-work. These not only have implications on costs but also on productivity and overall corporate image of the processor. Personnel – Managerial & Technical People are the biggest asset in a number of business environments; and apparel wet processing is no exception to this. It is imperative for industry to start investing in people – not merely masters. Technicians should be trained on fundamentals of fabrics, chemistry and the action on one over the other. Such formal training will form a firm foundation for the individuals, who will then be equipped to handle diverse situations too. In order to enable the industry to have a pool of trained individuals, academic institutes should come forward actively and design courses to suit the industry’s needs. A small beginning has been made in the last year or so, with sporadic workshops being conducted more as refresher courses. Closer industry-academia interaction will go a long way in establishing better trained workforces. Separately, industry interactions by way of seminars and conferences will provide a platform for discussing common issues. Apart from technical personnel, managerial talent should be bred within this industry. Garment wet processing is an industry by itself and should be treated as an independent profit center, wherein the need for managers is but natural to manage personnel, customers, resources and capital. Product Design & Development Collaborative Approach Collaboration within the supply chain in this trade hardly exists. In most situations, the various producing segments in the supply chain have taken adversarial positions thus together remaining weak. Garment processors need to develop partnerships both with suppliers and customers (which could be in-house too in some cases) both within the country as well as with international players overseas. Synergistic working helps in ensuring that laundries upgrade their knowledge base (since best practices are learnt through greater interaction), improve supply chain efficiencies and get better trade and technical terms with suppliers. Equally important is it to closely interact with customers to be able to do first time right. In in-house laundries, it has been noticed that there is lack of proper coordination between the laundry and other department. This causes production bottlenecks and associated problems. It is important to orient other departments about the importance of laundries and establish proper coordination mechanism of laundry with the production planning, merchandising and pre-washing departments. If the above issues are taken into account, India would be poised to become a significant force in the world order in the area of garment wet processing. Team S&A |
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Today world over the garment processing area has undergone dramatic changes in terms of technology though garment processing in India is yet to get recognition due to low technology level. Lack of standardization in terms of washing techniques, manpower employed, callousness in following wash recipes results in poor quality and recurring problems. In processing industry, efficiency counts more than reputation. It is a sheer science and thereby delicate also. Employees are dealing with chemicals, temperature, pH, level of water etc. before entering in these activities, one should have very sound scientific knowledge. Processing units are scientific entities than marketing entities. The basic criteria of an efficient washing unit are quality control, purchasing of good chemicals from reputed companies to avoid difficulties in processing, appropriate machinery and skillful operators. Scenario of the Unorganized Sector These findings are based on the survey conducted over
20 units that are involved in denim wet processing; Lot needs to be done for the up-gradation of unorganized processing units. Financial Constraints of Contract Washers The process industry is the worst sufferer of payment problems. Contract washers have to run from pillar to post to collect the payments. Credit period generally varies from 3-6 months and sometimes even runs to bad debt. Moreover too many job workers are vying for the share. This big gap deepens the problem for contract washers as brand owners very well utilize shifting tactics to prolong the credit period with the former washer. This has in turn negative inductive affect on other important areas of business e.g. payments to suppliers, daily operating expenses, regular business , etc . Common Problems In Denim Wet Processing Shade variation in production lots =>Usage of different lots
and quality of fabrics
This occurs when sampling is done using only few garments, instead of a lot size. Thus it's difficult to fix up the right recipe for production lots. Damage to the Garments During Wet Processing Damage to the embroidery, stitches or the trims used are the common problems. This can be due to poor sourcing of trims. Other reason for this can be vigorous action of the stone employed during washing. Streaks and Blotches These can occur due to poor desizing, improper wetting and lubrication of the garments. Another factor can be overloading of the garments. Backstaining In order to achieve the desire colour contrast during the stone washing process, it is important to minimize the re-deposition of the blue indigo or the backstaining on the garment. Backstaining increases with increase in temperature and decrease in pH. Since acid cellulases work at a pH of 4.5 and temperature 58C, backstaining is more with such enzymes. Neutral cellulases are preferred when high contrast and low backstaining is required. There is a need for technological investments in order to ensure that the processors have greater plant efficiencies, improved productivity patterns and better batch-to-batch reproducibility. While most of the players find current level of technology sufficient for existence and current growth a long term view needs to be taken while evaluating technological options to compete for the global market. With technological investments in hardware, if the above considerations are taken into account the unorganized job work would poised to become a significant force in the garment wet processing sector. S&A
Technical Sales Team,In association with: Ms. Saroj Bala,
Faculty, Pearl Academy of Fashions
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Unlike the majority of dyestuffs, pigments are insoluble in water and have no affinity to the textile fibres being printed. Thus, they have to be fixed to the fibre by a suitable binding agent. Fixation is dependent on temperature and time. After-scouring usually carried out for printing is not necessary. This simple working method saves time, energy and costs; pigment printing can thus be considered as low-priced variant. Its share of total printing worldwide is approximately 50%. Pigments are coloured substances in particulate from ranging between 0.3-1.0µm. Iron oxides, naphthalene's, soot or Titanium dioxides are suitable for this. Parameters in Favour of Pigment Printing
Binding Agents The most important ingredient of a pigment print paste is apart from the pigment itself, is the binding . Organic compounds (monomers) are polymerised to form the binder. These polymers are then used in the printing paste as binding agents. Various monomers are available for the production of binding agents; Acrylic acid ester, Methacrylic ester, Acrylonitrile, Acrylamide, Vinyl acetate, Vinyl chloride, Ethylene, Propylene, Butadiene, Styrene. As very high demands are made on printed goods, a binder type out of only one monomer will often not suffice for the printing paste. Therefore copolymers are preferred. By this modification the demands regarding fastness properties and handle can be optimized. The film forming properties of the binder takes place during drying in the hot air chamber. Cross-linking takes place
during the condensation reaction, at which point the pigment is
fixed into the binder. By this fixation (condensation) a durable
binding to the fibre is produced which is achieved by heat treatment
(this is not sufficient with steam). In order to obtain optimum
fastness properties, condensation is generally carried out for
5 mins. at 150oC. At higher temperatures the time of condensation
can be reduced which follows as; Thickening Agents Thickening agents are necessary for all dyestuffs groups. The thickener adjusts the viscosity of the printing paste. By this, a "flushing" of print is avoided; this means the sharpness of outline of the print is controlled. Two thickening systems are mainly possible for pigment printing: White spirit emulsions and Synthetic Thickening Agents White spirit emulsions are emulsions of the type “oil in water”. As the white spirit used as thickener evaporates during drying, the handle is hardly influenced at all. It is possible to obtain brilliant and intense shades. For ecological reasons these thickeners are, however, hardly used today. This is mainly due to environmental problems associated with Hydrocarbon solvents such as, pollution of waste water, waste air emission, unpleasant odours caused by the build-up of fumes in the workplace etc. Synthetic thickeners are mainly products based on the following monomers: 1. Maleic
acid Ammonium salts are mostly used as thickeners, so that ammonia can escape during fixing and the remaining poly-acrylic acid acts additionally as an acid donor. From a chemical viewpoint, thickeners are similar to binders. Thickening agents are stirred in water and may theoretically swell up to 300 times from the original volume. Synthetic thickeners have an excellent rheological behavior of pigment printing. Thickeners have a very high viscosity in the resting phase. It refers to liquids of intrinsic viscosity. This means the viscosity decreases as shearing forces are applied to the printing paste. Thus, the viscosity will decrease as a shear force is acting on the printing paste during printing. During printing the printing paste have in fact a viscosity like water and can thus be pressed through the screen openings only. The speed and the pressure of the coating knife produce this shear force. As soon as the printing paste is applied onto the goods, it reverts with a high viscosity, as if no shear force is acting upon it. Thus, the print has a very good outline and doesn't run-out. As synthetic thickener always cross-links partially influencing the handle, therefore the amount to be used should be as low as possible. The handle can be modified to some extent by adding a suitable softener. De-Foaming Agents As foam may occur during pasting and printing, it is recommended that the use of a de-foamer helps in keeping a check. Softening Agent As the binder and the synthetic thickener may possibly cause an undesirable hardening of the handle, a softener can be added to the printing paste. An important criteria for choosing a suitable softener is the compatibility with other additives in the printing paste as well as the influence on fastness properties. Moreover, the handle also depends very much on the substrate. Emulsifying Agents Emulsifying agents stabilize the additives in both white spirit-free and white spirit containing printing pastes. Flow Properties Improving Agents Gelling of printing pastes is prevented if products are added which improve the flow characteristics. These products facilitate the cleaning of screens and in extreme climatic conditions improve the flowing characteristics of the printing paste through the screens. Moreover, the clogging of screens is avoided. Acid Donors The rate of the cross-linking reaction that occurs during fixation (condensation) is accelerated by the addition of an acid catalyst. Therefore, it is very important that the fabric is neutralized prior to printing. The addition of an acid donor is especially recommended if high amounts of white spirits are used. If, however, a synthetic thickener is used, it can also act as acid donor during condensation. Di-Ammonium Phosphate Di-ammonium phosphate can be added to the printing pastes universally and without problems. The viscosity is, however reduced by the addition of di-ammonium phosphate. Preserving Agent If the printing paste is stored for a long period of time, especially under critical climatic conditions, the addition of a preserving agent is recommended. Test Methods for Pigment Printed Goods The following are the tests carried out for pigment printed goods: 1. Rub fastness
Test Method :
Examination of the Print Paste Viscosity The viscosity of the print paste is tested with a rotary viscometer. The principle of which is a rotating body operating with constant speed is immersed into the print paste; the twist resistance is then the measure for the viscosity of the print paste. The viscosity is registered directly in mPa.s. The temperature is an important factor during measurement, care should be taken that the temperature remains constant. Parameters Influencing the Fastness Property & Results
Concluding, in the modern times pigment printing
faces a stiff competition from the Inkjet and Xerographic printing.
Due to its easy application and high production speed pigment printing
continues to be the preferred process of producing highly attractive
printing goods.
Christian Pongs |
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portant Quality Parameter for the Finishing of Indigo Dyed Fabrics Backstaining - Important Quality Parameter for the Finishing of Indigo Dyed Fabrics Backstaining is the returned diluted indigo dye on the fabric. The effect is reduced contrast, (The difference between white and blue spots) bluish even color and dirty appearance on the outer and the inner side of the fabric including the white inside parts like pockets and labels. The parameters that are controlling the backstaining levels are, PH - It is the most important parameter by far.
As you see the lowest backstaining levels appearing in the neutral PH range between 6.5 and 7.5. The final garment quality is very poor as the often used lower PH is because of the use of acid cellulases. The quantity of the water and the temperature are also important - Higher the quantity of the water the more space required for the abrated indigo to dilute the better anti- backstaining result. For example 1% of a neutral enzyme can add water fabric ratio up to 1/20. Further, the use of split dosage trick gives much better results - taking half the enzyme for the half time keeping water ratio up to 1/10. Drop the bath and again the other half of the enzyme, the rest of the time with the same quantity of the water. Many rinses means reduced backstaining. Lowering the bath temperature can help in the reduction of the returned indigo. It is to be noted that new neutral enzyme formulations can work in 25°C bath also. Presence of Dispersing Agents - Higher the dosage more effective results concerning the quality would be reachable. The type of dispersing agents is important. Fatty alcohols having chains of 40-60 molecules will have good results. However, we have to be careful of the foaming because it usually causes problems to the cellulases and to the rinses. Optimum dosages can be 0,5-2g/lt of water. The use of antifoaming agents can be dangerous for the enzymes and the machinery.
New generations of alkalic environment enzyme formulations reduce the backstaining effect.The quality of finished denim fabrics of such types of enzymes is the highest possible concerning of course all the above conditions. The type of the water and the type of the indigo dyes can affect the backstaining level. Very hard water can increase the backstaining and deionised one can prevent the enzyme deactivation. Semi hard waters are the best ones. The stabilization of the indigo dye on the fabric can reduce or increase the backstaining levels. This is a parameter that no finisher can controlle. It is a mutter of the fabric manufacturer and only after trials on a specific material you can specify the back staining possibilities. After treatment with bleaching agents, detergents and optical brighteners are very effective. The use of neutral enzymes and the thorough controlled parameters can give excellent results.
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THE FIXATION OF INDIGO DYESTUFF The term "fixing agent" refers to any of a large number of chemicals used to improve the retention of a dyestuff by a fibre. In most applications of dyestuffs to fibres, the dyestuff is fixed to the fibre by chemical or physical forces during the dyeing process hence no additional fixation is required. However, in some cases, particularly heavy shades, the dyed fabric does not have adequate fastness unless fixing agents are used. In these cases, the fixing agents are applied as an after treatment to the dyeing process. The improvement of retention of dyestuff by the fibre is the result of converting the dyestuff to a less soluble form. This is accomplished by means of a chemical reaction between the dyestuff and the fixing agent. The same chemical reactions can be used to enhance the dyeablity of a fibre in the garment dyeing process. There are also situations where it is desirable to improve the retention of dyestuff during garment processing. Reactive fixing agents based on formaldehyde condensates have been used for many years for fixation of certain classes of dyestuff to cellulose fibres. However, today the most common fixing agents used in the garment dyeing and processing are comprised of complex water soluble cationic amine or amide polymers, such as DYESET NOZ, DYESET NFS and TANADYE DL . When dyed cellulose fibres are treated with solutions of these polymers, the cationic polymer is attracted to the anionic dyestuff. The polymer forms an insoluble film binding the dyestuff to the fibre. The type polymer selected for fixation of dyestuff is dependent upon the desired results. Epi-polyamides, such as DYESET NFS, are commonly used for control of color loss during home laundering. Since these polymers must be dried on the fiber to achieve maximum fixation of the color, these polymers are applied in the final stage of the dyeing or garment processing step. DYESET NOZ, an epi-polyamine, is commonly used to reduce color loss during garment wet processing. DYESET NOZ is incorporated in the first wet processing step. By holding more color on the fabric during the desize cycle, a higher degree of contrast can be achieved between the highly abraded and lightly abraded areas of the garment. Other speciality polymers, such as TANADYE DL, possess both epi-polyamine and epi-polyamide functionality. This type polymer can be used to control both color bleed in wet processing and subsequent home laundering. However, higher usage levels are required to achieve equivalent results. In the case of dyeing of fabric and garments, both the epi-polyamines and epi-polyamides have been utilized as pretreatments and fixatives. The following summarizes the main cationic polymers used as fixatives in garment process and their application: DYESET NOZ: Wet fixation. Less color loss during garment processing. May require capping agent to prevent stain on trim. DYESET NFS: Improves color fastness to home laundering. Use with selected soft acrylics can enhance fastness TANADYE DL: Both polyamine/polyamide functionally. Can be used for wet or dry fixation. Good pretreatment for garment dyeing.
FASTNESS OF INDIGO DYESTUFF Due to the nature of Indigo dyestuff and the surface or ring dyeing techniques used to apply the dyestuff, Indigo dyed yarns generally have poor wash fastness. However, if desired, Indigo dyed yarns and fabrics can be treated with fixing agents to greatly enhance the wash fastness of the indigo dyestuff. The degree of fixation required and the point at which the fixative is applied depends largely on the look desired in the washed garment. In the process of manufacturing Indigo denim, there are two areas that offer the greatest opportunity for application of the fixative. These are the slashing of the yarns and finishing of the fabric. The following illustrates the possibilities for applying the fixative in those particular operations. • TREATMENT OF DYED YARNS Application of the fixative to the dyed yarns reduces bleeding of the indigo dyestuff during the finishing operation. This results in less cross staining and reduction of the tendency for the shade to get heavier as the color builds up in the finish bath. |
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Chemical Processing of Textiles-Ecological Aspects There is a general impression that technology is causing pollution and is responsible for the bad state of environment. In this process, it is conveniently forgotten that the same technology is responsible and vital for the development. Is it not a historic fact that the environment started degrading ever since the living systems originated on the earth? The degradation is a natural consequence of the existing interacting ecosystem. However, the degradation can be minimized if not only prevented. In recent years, everybody is aware of the significance of maintaining a good and clear environment for a better life style. The problem of pollution is felt air, water and noise from the surroundings. In fact, water and air are the fundamental media in which life exists. Major industries responsible for water pollution are textiles, fermentation, chemical, distilleries, tanneries, petrochemicals, nuclear plants etc. Textile mills discharge large quantities of effluents, which are composed of various pollutants. An average sized textile mill having daily cloth production of about 8000 kg discharges about one million litres of effluents per day. Before discharging into public sewers or surface water or on the open land, it needs to be treated to certain tolerable limits. CHARACTERISTICS OF EFFLUENTS Desizing Cloth is treated with aqueous solutions of enzymes and wetting agents for removal of sizing materials which are unwanted for subsequent processes. Significant characteristics of the effluents of this process are 1. High biological oxygen demand (BOD) 2. High total dissolved solids (TDS) 3. pH around 7, and 4. Some suspended solids in colloidal form. Scouring and Bleaching About 38% of the total water used in mill is consumed in this section using kiers and continuous bleaching range such as J-box. Characteristics of effluents discharged are 1. High BOD ppm - 2500-3500 2. High temperature (70°C - 80°C) 3. High pH (10-12) 4. High cations (sodium ions) 5. High total solids. mg/l, or ppm - 12000-30000, and 6. Suspended solids, mg/l, or ppm - 1000-2000. Mercerization In this process textile goods under tension are treated with a concentrated solution of caustic soda at fairly low temperature to impart permanent luster and strength to the fibre or fabric. Effluents do not generally exhibit very high dissolved solids and the main characteristics are as follows:
Dyeing and Printing Water consumed in printing of textiles is about 8% and 16% in dyeing of textiles of the total, or 30-60 l/kg of substrate. Characteristics of effluents are as follows:
Other Allied Processes One such process is water treatment. Normally, ion-exchange process is employed. The chemicals used for ion exchange regeneration of resins are sodium chloride and sometimes an acid. The effluents here contain demineralization process. Though the proportion of effluents is comparatively small, it can influence during the discharge on open irrigation lands because of high salinity. Another plant discharging effluents is the boiler through blow-down. The effluents from boiler blow-down have high temperature(70°C - 80°C) and ph (10-11), high cations and high dissolved solids (500-10000 ppm). Minimizing the Pollution Load This can be done by equalization. It is essential to hold the effluents for long durations, so that, equalization of each characteristic is achieved by adequate mixing. Equalization will also bring about self neutralization of different streams like mixing alkaline effluent from mercerization with acidic one from carbonizing section and mixing highly concentrated stream with dilute stream to reduce the concentration of pollutants in the composite stream. Recovery of by Products The effluent load can be considerably reduced if some of the polluting chemicals present can be recovered, e.g., recovery of caustic soda from the mercerization waste, dyes from waste dye liquors by dialysis, reverse osmosis and other techniques as adopted abroad. Process Changes Sometimes changes in the processes can reduce the pollution appreciably, e.g., use of CMC and polyvinyl alcohol in place of starch in sizing of cloth reduces BOD load considerably. Use of mineral acids in place of enzymes in desizing will not exert BOD, and lower the pH. Use of mineral acids instead of acetic acid in dyeing or non biodegradable detergent in place of soap reduces the BOD. However such changes are related to their economic viability. Prevention of Loss of Chemicals Spillages and leakages, contributing substantially to the pollution, should be prevented. Segregation It is desirable to segregate waste streams containing highly toxic or harmful chemicals from the other streams and treat them separately, e.g., dye liquors from dyeing section can be separately treated by coagulation and/or adsorbents to remove their BOD and colouring impurities before mixing with the composite stream. Team S&A |
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S&A Impex had participated in the recently held Tencel Show at Hotel Nikko in New Delhi on 8th and 9th April 2003. The exhibition showcased a number of new fabrics from mills using Tencel and its blends. However, in a departure from tradition, Tencel used this opportunity to demonstrate new technologies that would be of interest to the visitors, including the laser and scrunch technologies (from GFK). S&A had kept on show a number of innovative laser, scrunch and other finishes on garments made from tencel and tencel-blended fabrics. Visitors were largely from the buying houses and exporters; however, a few domestic brands too did make their presence felt in the visitor fraternity. Tencel had organized a half day seminar too during this event and Manuj Kanchan presented wonderfully on the benefits of the laser technology as well as its unique features. Presenting few Clippings of the same
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